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Dabbling in the Daring Tapas of Radio Maria

Restaurant serves up evocative and classic dishes

Apr. 03, 2008 - by Carlye Wisel – Buzz Writer

My boyfriend and I dropped the ball on Valentine’s Day traditions and resorted to making gnocchi and eating lots of foreign cheeses while other couples went dining at awkwardly forced meals clad in the only item of red clothing they own.

So when he offered to treat me to a fancy dinner elsewhere on a different night, I happily obliged to chow down on tapas a month later at Radio Maria.

Dressed in my Saturday best, I entered to discover that the night wasn’t going to be as fancy as I (and my obnoxiously tall high heels) had predicted. On our way to the table, we were whisked past a glass door revealing couples and families dining, smiling and being as classy as I had hoped to be.

Immediately regretting the side we picked — a bar with restaurant tables, metallic, modern décor and a business-casual dressed crowd — the separateness left me dejected until I caught what music was playing. The ambience was set so well by a mix of tunes including Wilco and Seu Jorge that even Dave Matthews Band’s “Satellite” sounded good in-between them.

After rifling through the chapter book-sized wine listings, we meticulously chose three plates — one daring, one classic and one safe choice to experience it all — and ended up with fried frog legs, lamb chops and queso de cabra frito, respectively.

Laid in lime honey garnished with cilantro, the two frog legs ($5.50) were quite good. The lamb chop duo ($12) was also tasty, but for being small and slightly fatty, I probably wouldn’t repeat them, even though they did come with fantastic beet chips that should definitely be turned into their own tapas offering.

Next up was the queso de cabra frito ($5.50), which was the best thing I’ve eaten in weeks. Three balls of fried goat cheese served with Jamaican honey and three baguette slices — what could be better?

Still hungry after picking at the plates, my date ordered a chocolate cake dessert, and I ordered another round of the queso de cabra frito (I wasn’t kidding, it’s phenomenal).

Served as a Bundt cake that ended up being kind of dense, my boyfriend thought dessert was “not as good as he expected,” probably due to the blatantly store-bought “Swirls” chocolate chips it was garnished with.

Dinner was satisfying, but Radio Maria, open ’til 2 a.m. seven days a week, is also a solid choice if you’re looking for a drink and snack late at night and don’t want to eat a stack of random 24-hour diner foods.

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